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BIG STORY OF THE FORTNIGHT

You name? My Name?

Whose name now, Vietnam? 

September 1, 2014

 

WHEN COMMUNISTS across the globe went on a 'jihad' against America in Vietnam treating it as a proxy war in Cold war-era, apprehensions were the country's future would be the same as the ‘pariah’ and most secretive state now — North Korea — under the natural “domino effect”. With this preconceived notion, I embarked on a journey to this tiny far-east Asian country for my college summer internship, with endless skepticism, coupled with curiosity.

My notion suffered its first jolt when I saw a big hoarding of a smiling Barack Obama on the roadside!

 

Wasn’t Vietnam a Communist country and anti-USA? Didn’t the Vietnamese fight a guerrilla war against America for 20 years with country’s death toll around 3.1 million? What I remembered from history was the global cry: Your name? My Name? Vietnam! Vietnam! This phrase was coined by Communists world over in support of North Vietnam, who fought to establish communism in their country. And America supported South Vietnam as a part of a wider containment strategy, with the stated aim of stopping the spread of communism. According to the U.S. domino theory, if one state went Communist, other states in the region would follow, and U.S. policy thus held that Communist rule over all of Vietnam was unacceptable. However, the long, tedious war that began in 1955 ended with a North Vietnamese victory over America in 1975. Thus North and South Vietnam were unified under a single Communist government.

 

But where are the traces of such a haloed war today? Communism is there officially alright, but one look at the Americanized (read Capitalist) city of Hanoi made me realize ‘Communism’ just another word in Vietnam.  

Booming real-estate constructions, luxurious cars on wide roads set against miles of well-maintained gardens and fountains ; prominence of renowned Multi-National Corporations — some of which are even American, excellent public transport service, globalized open economy welcomed me. Albeit being under single Communist party rule, the modernization in Vietnamese socio-economic domain can be witnessed simply by stepping out of the old quarter.

 

The country is revering Obama and reviling its once ally-turned-enemy, China, in light of the recent dispute over the oil rigs in South China Sea — not to mention setting up a dam in Red River by China which is drying up the crop fields in agriculture-based Vietnam.

 

Vietnam is now the second happiest country in the world, according to a British survey last year. Political realignment is underway in this country, which had also previously been a major turning point in diplomatic tussle between the Leftists and Capitalists; proving there is no permanent friends or foes in politics.

Once a reason for communists all over the world turning jihad against America, Vietnam now reveres USA and is happily cradled in the seat of capitalism and commercialism! That's what Shoubonteec Ghose, an Engineering student, finds out during his internship to the country. ..... Ahoy! Time 

Shoubonteec Ghose | Hanoi, Vietnam

LEFT: A glimpse of the 20-year Vietnam War to establish socialsm; from 1955-1975 

RIGHT: Vietnam now

After the initial rebuff of my skepticism, I spent the following few days in exploring the city, especially the old quarter's alleys and lanes which bear the proof of the country's French colonial past through architecture and culture. The revered mausoleum Ho Chi Minh, who is regarded as Vietnam's global face like Mahatma Gandhi or Nelson Mandela , was at the top of the list of my sightseeing menu.

 

When the project started with my co-interns from different continents, I got to experience the Vietnamese people and their lifestyle more profoundly. After few hectic weeks, we decided to visit SaPa — the nearest hill station close to border with Laos for getting a taste of rural Vietnamese life.

Skeptical about the language barrier which I encountered in Hanoi, we found our trekking guide was speaking fluently in English! However, being a lazy momma's boy, who is reluctant to walk even one mile on plain city roads, trekking through mountainous 15 kilometers for a whole day seemed a Herculean task for me. Embarrassingly, using our guide as a support I managed to surmount the mission and reached the tribal village. Here we were served local delicacies — from buffalo meat to rice wine.

 

Apart from the enthralling cloud cloaked mountain slope, the paddy fields on hill steps looking like green velvet wrapped staircases. Getting soaked in the cool pristine water of stream crisscrossing the valley was a luxurious experience.

 

With such an enchanting experience, we came back to the busy city, only to plan to go to one of the UNESCO's World Heritage Sites — Halong Bay. This place is named after the dragon and is a cluster of few thousand rocky islands situated in Gulf of Tonkin. With buzzing tourist activities like diving, rock climbing, kayaking this spot in Vietnam is a hotspot for westernized youngsters.

 

The next day we visited a stray island after an overnight boat cruise through spooky limestone caves and reached a beach bungalow overlooking the panoramic sea.

 

Exotic beach, crystal-clear calm water and mouth-watering seafood simply made me forget how gruesome and long battle the country had fought to establish against this kind of commercialism in this country. Here all I saw was opulence, luxury, wealth and westernized free mingling. However, that made Vietnam all the more beautiful, as I was now going back with a heart full of pleasant memories  of a beautiful Vietnam, its sweet-tempered , soft-spoken people  and my ever-smiling, full-of-warmth Vietnamese friends.

 

 

Shoubonteec Ghose is an Undergraduate Engineering student

 

 

LEFT: Award winning photos of the war, which had kept the communists around the world on tenterhooks for 20 years.

RIGHT: A huge poster of Barack Obama in Hanoi now. (According to Google translate the words below means "male haircuts"!)

Glimpses of Vietnam now

WARNING: GRAPHIC CONTENT

The original video here

PHOTOGRAPHS: SHOUBONTEEC GHOSE

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